okay, that was a lot of time lost on a niche issue.

Apparently if you have a ZFS mount-point owned by root:wheel with permissions 700/rwx------ (i.e. groups and other can't read the directory), even if `zfs mount` seems to have mounted it such that `ls -l` reports the directory as 755/rwxr-xr-x, you will get odd symptoms like ../ disappearing for users.

Fortunately, it was a simple fix (unmount, chmod 755, remount) once I found it, and now everything is working, but wowzer, the side-effects were weird.

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